Tutorial 6: Binding the Quilt

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Requirements: Rotary cutting mat, long ruler, rotary cutter, pins, thimble, needle, and thread to match the binding. (If no rotary cutting equipment is available, it is possible to mark the wadding and backing with a pencil and cut with scissors. However a long ruler is necessary)

1. Before attaching the binding, it is necessary to trim the backing and wadding level with the quilt top, and to also check that all corners are 90 degrees. Sometimes the quilt can become distorted during the quilting stage.
   Lay the quilt, right side up on a smooth, flat surface. Ease the cutting mat under the quilt. Using the long ruler and rotary cutter, trim any excess wadding and backing fabric even with the quilt top. Work around the quilt, checking that the corners of the quilt are 90 degrees.
2. The finished binding, as seen from the front of the quilt, is usually 6 mm (1/4"). To get the circumference measurement of the quilt, measure the quilt's width and length through the quilt's centre, then double this measurement. Strips are cut 6.5 cm (2 1/2") across the width of the binding fabric. Cut enough strips to obtain the required length of binding plus 50 cm.
3. Join the binding strips together, fold in half lengthwise with right side out and press. Press under 6 mm (1/4") at one end. This is the starting end.

Attaching the Binding with Mitred Corners

The method described creates mitred corners on both the front and back of the quilt. To avoid extra bulk of seams in the corners, make a trial run to decide where to begin attaching the binding. Always begin at least 10 cm (4") from a corner.

1. With raw edges together, and taking the starting end, begin pinning the binding in place. Continue to pin in place to within 6 mm (1/4") of the first corner. Stitch this section; commence stitching 7 cm (3") past the start of the binding, (Fig 1)
   Finish the stitching 6 mm (1/4") from the edge of the quilt top, back stitch, cut the thread and remove the quilt.
   
2. The First Mitred Corner
   Place the quilt on a flat surface, lift and fold the binding until it is in a straight line with the next side to be stitched. (Fig 2)
   Bring the binding back down onto the next side, the folded top edge must be even with the top edge of the quilt, creating a small tuck at the corner. (Fig 3) Pin the binding in place to within 6 mm (1/4") of the next corner. Stitch, finishing as before 6 mm (1/4") from the quilt's edge.
   Repeat this process for each side and corner of the quilt.
   When you come to about 7 cm (3") from the starting point, remove the quilt and measure the binding. Cut, leaving 1 cm (1/2") extra. Tuck this into the beginning of the binding, pin and sew in place. (Fig 4)
   
3. Fold the binding to the back; pin in place. At the corners make a 45 degree fold on the binding to match the mitred corner on the front. Using a small slip stitch, hand sew in place. (Fig 5)
   

Using the Outside Border as the Binding

Place the quilt on a flat surface with the right side of the quilt facing up. Pin the outside border back onto the quilt. Smooth out any wrinkles and slip a cutting mat under the quilt. Using a large quilter's ruler, carefully trim the outside edge of the quilt 2.5 cm or 1" from the seam joining the outer border. Check that the corners are 90 degrees.

Unpin the last border. To avoid extra bulk at the corners, cut a triangle 1 cm (1/2") off the corners.

Turn under 1/4" on the raw edge and then fold the border binding over to the required depth.

At each corner neatly tuck and fold the fabric so the finished edge of the binding forms a 90 degee angle. Hand sew in place using small slip stitches.

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